How to make Conditioning shampoo bars for dry, damaged hair
Are you ready to learn how to make a nourishing shampoo bar that will leave your hair feeling healthy, moisturized, and conditioned? Look no further than this easy-to-follow recipe that features some of the most hair-loving ingredients available.
First, let's take a look at the ingredients in this recipe and their properties:
Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is a mild surfactant derived from coconut oil that creates a rich and creamy lather. It has excellent cleansing properties while remaining gentle on the hair and scalp. (I used it at 55% in this formula but you can use less, )
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) is a gentle and biodegradable surfactant that is derived from coconut and palm oils. It creates a luxurious foam and helps to remove dirt and oils from the hair. (used at 20.00% in these shampoo bars, feel free to increase for foam boosting benefit.)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a mild surfactant that is derived from coconut oil and is known for its ability to create a rich and creamy lather. It also helps to improve the conditioning properties of the shampoo bar. ( 8.00%, you can use a different liquid surfactant though)
Cocoa butter is a rich and emollient butter that is derived from the cocoa bean. It is packed with antioxidants and essential fatty acids that help to nourish and moisturize the hair. (5.00% seems like a lot of Cocoa butter but if you have dry damaged hair this butter will help to restore the strength and shine of your hair)
BTMS-50 is a cationic emulsifying wax that is derived from rapeseed oil. It helps to condition the hair and provides excellent detangling properties. ( 3.00% seems to work best in shampoo bars)
Cetyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that helps to thicken and stabilize the shampoo bar while also adding a silky feel to the hair. ( 3.00% is the sweet spot)
Broccoli Seed Oil is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that help to nourish and protect the hair. It is also lightweight and easily absorbed, making it perfect for those with fine or thin hair. ( 2.00%, you can use a different oil, scroll down for more information on substitutions)
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is a protein derived from wheat that helps to strengthen and repair hair. It also adds body and shine to the hair while improving its overall manageability. ( 2.00%, read more about different types of Hydrolyzed proteins down below)
Raspberry Slushie Fragrance oil provides a sweet and fruity scent that is both invigorating and refreshing. (Usage rate: 1.00%)
Euxyl PE 9010 is a preservative that helps to prevent bacterial and fungal growth in the shampoo bar. (Usage rate: 1.00%)
Pink Mica is an optional ingredient that can be added to give the shampoo bar a beautiful pink hue.
IF YOU WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS, PH LEVEL, AND OTHER INTERESTING INFORMATION SCROLL DOWN AND DIVE IN.
In the last post, we learned how to make basic cold-processed herbal shampoo bars. Today, the formula will include 3 phases:
surfactant phase (hot-processed)
oil phase (hot-processed)
cool-down phase (added once surfactants and oil-phase ingredients are mixed together and cooled down)
I observed that these shampoo bars needed about 12 hours longer to harden completely and I also places them in a freezer for about 3-4 hours.
When it comes to foaming and lathering properties I can say that the Herbal Shampoo Bars foamed and bubbled better, they produces larger bubbles, whereas the Shampoo Bars for Dry and Damaged Hair produced creamier, softer, less porous foam. And I am not surprised.
Shampoo bars without oils and butters may foam and bubble better than those with oils and butters because oils and butters can interfere with the foaming and lathering properties of the surfactants in the shampoo bar.
Surfactants are the active ingredients in shampoo bars that help to cleanse the hair by removing dirt, oil, and product buildup. When you add oils and butters to a shampoo bar, they can coat the hair and interfere with the ability of the surfactants to penetrate and cleanse the hair. Additionally, oils and butters can also coat the surfactant molecules themselves, making it more difficult for them to create a rich lather.
Take this into account when you formulate shampoos and body washes.
Shampoo Bars for Dry and Damaged Hair are a luxurious treat for my hair. They leave my hair very soft and conditioned. I also use them as body wash and shave bars and they perform beautifully. These bars are a truly multifunctional product.
More shampoo Bar related content
Now, let's talk about the hair-loving properties of the three key ingredients in this recipe: broccoli seed oil, cocoa butter, and hydrolyzed wheat protein.
Broccoli seed oil is rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, making it an excellent moisturizer for the hair. It also contains vitamin C, which can help to strengthen and protect the hair from damage. Additionally, it has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties that can help to soothe a dry or itchy scalp.
Cocoa butter is a luxurious and emollient butter that is rich in antioxidants and essential fatty acids. It helps to nourish and moisturize the hair, while also improving its elasticity and shine. Studies have also shown that cocoa butter can help to protect the hair from UV damage and environmental stressors.
Hydrolyzed wheat protein is a protein that has been broken down into smaller molecules, making it easier for the hair to absorb. It helps to strengthen and repair the hair, while also adding body and shine. Additionally, it has been shown to help protect the hair from damage caused by heat.
Formula
I made a 150g batch and it produced 2 bars
A
55.00% SCI - Sodium cocoyl isethionate
20.00% SLSA - Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
8.00% Cocamidopropyl Betaine
B
5.00% Cocoa butter
3.00% BTMS-50
3.00% Cetyl alcohol
C
2.00% Broccoli Seed Oil
2.00% Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
1.00% Raspberry Slushie Fragrance oil
1.00% Euxyl PE 9010
Pink Mica (as needed)
Instructions
Weigh the A-phase ingredients in a beaker or a heat-resistant jar.
Weight the B-phase ingredients in a beaker or a heat-resistant jar.
Place both beakers in a water bath until the oil phase ingredients completely melt.
Once the B phase ingredients are melted combine the A and B phase phases and mix to combine everything together. At this point, you can knead the mixture like playdough.
Once the mixture cools down a little and is not hot anymore, add your cool-down phase ingredients, and mix to combine.
Shape the shampoo bars with your hands or use a silicone soap mold or a 3D mold and place the bars in a freezer for 2-6 hours.
Take the bars out and let them air dry for at least 48 hours or until completely hardened.
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SURFACTANTS
When it comes to cleansing hair, surfactants play a vital role. They work by reducing the surface tension of water, allowing it to penetrate hair fibers and remove dirt, oil, and other impurities. Using a combination of surfactants in a shampoo bar has several benefits for hair compared to using only one surfactant.
Firstly, using a combination of surfactants can lead to a milder cleansing experience. For example, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) and Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) are both considered mild surfactants that produce a rich lather. However, SLSA can be more drying to the hair compared to SCI, which can leave the hair feeling moisturized. By combining these two surfactants, the drying effect of SLSA can be counteracted by the moisturizing effect of SCI, resulting in a more balanced cleansing experience.
Secondly, combining surfactants can also improve the performance of the shampoo bar. Cocamidopropyl Betaine, for example, is a mild amphoteric surfactant that can increase the foam volume and mildness of the shampoo bar, making it easier to spread through the hair. BTMS-50 and Cetyl Alcohol are both conditioning agents that can improve the texture of the shampoo bar and make it feel smoother on the hair. Broccoli Seed Oil is an emollient that can help to smooth the hair cuticle and add shine, while Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein can strengthen hair and improve its elasticity.
Comparing shampoo bars that use only one surfactant to those that combine surfactants, it is clear that combining surfactants offers many advantages for hair. Shampoo bars that use only one surfactant can be more drying and less effective at removing dirt and oil from the hair. They may also produce less foam and have a less luxurious feel. Combining surfactants allows for a milder, more moisturizing, and more effective cleansing experience. This is especially important for individuals with dry or damaged hair, who may benefit from the conditioning properties of a shampoo bar that combines surfactants.
In conclusion, using a combination of surfactants in a shampoo bar can lead to a more balanced, effective, and luxurious cleansing experience. The formulation provided in this post is an excellent example of a shampoo bar that combines surfactants to provide conditioning, moisturizing, and nourishing properties to the hair. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned shampoo bar maker, this recipe is easy to make and can be customized with different fragrances and molds to suit your preferences.
pH Balanced Bars
When formulating a shampoo bar or other personal care product, it is important to consider the pH level of the surfactants being used and how they will interact with other ingredients in the formulation. A pH-balanced product is generally considered to be around pH 5.5, which is similar to the natural pH level of the skin and hair. By selecting surfactants with appropriate pH levels and balancing the overall pH of the formulation, it is possible to create a safe and effective product that is gentle on the hair and skin.
Maintaining the pH balance of a shampoo bar is essential to ensure that it is gentle on the hair and scalp. The formulation provided in this post is carefully balanced to ensure that the final product is pH-balanced for the hair.
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI), Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA), and Cocamidopropyl Betaine are all mild surfactants that are typically used in pH-balanced formulations. They have a pH range of around 5-7, which is close to the natural pH of hair and scalp. Using these surfactants helps to maintain the acid mantle of the hair, which is a protective layer that helps to keep the hair healthy and strong.
If you will choose surfactants with a higher pH level for example Coco Glucoside and Sodium Coco-Sulfate that you might want to reduce the pH level of the shampoo bars by adding Lactic Acid or Citric Acid solution to your formulation.
Oils and butters with great hair benefits
In this formulation, Cocoa Butter is used as a conditioning agent to moisturize and soften the hair. However, there are other types of butter that can be used in this formula to achieve similar results.
One alternative to Cocoa Butter is Shea Butter, which is a popular choice for hair care products due to its moisturizing and nourishing properties. Shea Butter is high in vitamins A and E, which help to improve the overall health of the hair and scalp. It also contains essential fatty acids that help to condition and protect the hair from damage.
Another alternative to Cocoa Butter is Mango Butter, which is derived from the seeds of the mango fruit. Mango Butter is rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, which help to nourish and protect the hair. It is also known for its emollient properties, which help to soften and smooth the hair.
Ilipe Butter is also a great option that can be used in place of Cocoa Butter. Ilipe Butter is derived from the nuts of the Shorea Stenoptera tree and is known for its moisturizing and protective properties. It contains a high level of fatty acids, which help to nourish and strengthen the hair, making it a great choice for dry and damaged hair.
As for the oil, one alternative to Broccoli Seed Oil is Argan Oil, which is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties. Argan Oil is rich in vitamin E and fatty acids, which help to improve the overall health of the hair and scalp. It also helps to reduce frizz and improve the manageability of the hair.
Coconut oil is another popular ingredient in shampoo bar formulations due to its unique properties and benefits for hair. It is moisturizing, conditioning, readily available and it has a great coconutty scent!
Hydrolyzed proteins
Hydrolyzed proteins are commonly used in hair care formulations due to their ability to improve the overall health and appearance of the hair. These proteins are broken down into smaller fragments through a process called hydrolysis, which makes them more easily absorbed by the hair shaft. Hydrolyzed proteins are a popular ingredient in hair care formulations due to their ability to improve the strength, texture, and appearance of the hair. Here are some common types of hydrolyzed proteins and their benefits for hair care:
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: This protein is derived from wheat and is a popular choice in hair care formulations due to its ability to strengthen and condition the hair. It is also known to improve the elasticity of the hair, making it less prone to breakage.
Hydrolyzed Keratin: This protein is derived from animal sources such as sheep's wool and is known for its ability to strengthen and repair damaged hair. It can help to reduce frizz and improve the overall texture and appearance of the hair.
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein: This protein is derived from silk and is known for its ability to improve the moisture content of the hair. It can help to smooth the hair cuticle, reducing frizz and improving shine.
Hydrolyzed Collagen: This protein is derived from animal sources such as cowhide and is known for its ability to improve the overall health of the hair. It can help to increase the thickness of the hair shaft, making it appear fuller and more voluminous.
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein: This protein is derived from rice and is known for its ability to strengthen and volumize the hair. It also helps to improve the hair's texture and reduce frizz.
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein: This protein is derived from soybeans and is a popular ingredient in hair care products due to its ability to strengthen and condition the hair. It also helps to improve the hair's manageability and reduce breakage.
Hydrolyzed Bean Protein: This protein is derived from beans and is known for its ability to strengthen and moisturize hair. It also helps to improve the hair's elasticity and reduce breakage.
Hydrolyzed Ginseng Protein: This protein is derived from ginseng and is known for its ability to moisturize and condition the hair. It also helps to improve the hair's texture and reduce frizz.
The recommended usage rates for hydrolyzed proteins in hair care formulations can vary depending on the specific protein and the desired effects. However, in general, the recommended usage rates for hydrolyzed proteins in hair care formulations range from 0.5% to 5%. It is important to follow the manufacturer's recommended usage rates and guidelines for each specific ingredient.
In this shampoo bar formulation, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is used to provide conditioning benefits to the hair. However, other hydrolyzed proteins can also be used in place of Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein to achieve similar results. For example, Hydrolyzed Keratin or Hydrolyzed Silk Protein can be used as alternative options. It is important to consider the specific properties and benefits of each protein and choose the one that is best suited to your hair type and needs.
Here are some suppliers of hydrolyzed proteins in the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, UK, and EU that offer small quantities for hobby makers:
USA:
Lotioncrafter LLC: offers a variety of hydrolyzed proteins in small quantities for hair care formulations.
Formulator Sample Shop: offers a range of hydrolyzed proteins, including rice, silk, and wheat protein.
MakingCosmetics Inc.: offers hydrolyzed silk protein, wheat protein, and keratin protein
Canada:
Voyageur Soap & Candle Co.: offers hydrolyzed wheat protein, silk protein, and keratin protein
Windy Point Soap Making Supplies Ltd.: offers hydrolyzed oat protein and hydrolyzed rice protein
Australia:
N-Essentials: offers hydrolyzed silk protein, wheat protein, and keratin protein
Aussie Soap Supplies: offers hydrolyzed rice protein and hydrolyzed oat protein
New Zealand:
PureNature: offers hydrolyzed wheat protein, silk protein, and keratin protein in small quantities.
UK:
Soap Kitchen: offers hydrolyzed wheat protein, silk protein, and keratin protein
Aromantic: offers hydrolyzed oat protein, rice protein, and silk protein
EU:
AZ Chemistry: offers hydrolyzed silk protein, wheat protein, and keratin protein
Aroma-Zone: offers hydrolyzed rice protein, silk protein, and wheat protein
alexmo cosmetics
manskeshop.de
dragonspice.de
I hope you like this formulation as much as I do. Happy making!
What do you think about this Formula? Would you like to make one? Do you have any questions? Feel free to comment down below or reach out to me via Facebook or Instagram.
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